Oscar de la Renta’s was the most anticipated show of fashion week (at least for me). The suspense was high, and the master did not disappoint – and neither did the other designer who remained backstage. Fall 2013 proves to be a wonder dance between the two, and you could sense it from the very opening look: a vivid teal cashgora coat (unmistakably Galliano in its wildly draped details and Dior bar suit influence) with Oscar-esque suede pumps and a patent-leather cloche hat. This is a wardrobe for a woman as creative as she is sophisticated,. One who likes her suits slashed, shifted, and with ever-so twisted proportions and wants her accessories to go all the way, from the belts knotted tight in exotic skin to the quintessentially ladylike gloves.
I loved the sweet synthesis of the two very different designers’ signatures. A Galliano cape tossed on over black stretch-leather pants, topped with Oscar’s colorful embroidery and bold chandelier necklace. Or a bouclé-tweed suit with a collar dipped low (and no blouse beneath it). While both of their signatures came to life, the collection is ultimately, unmistakably Oscar. The clothes took center stage, but a few bags succeeded in catching my eye: a roll clutch in anthracite snakeskin (another Oscar signature), as well as the Marilia silk-faille embroidered bag in lush mulberry.
The styling? Simple and elegant, as Oscar always does, to complement the drama of the clothes. Naturally, it wouldn’t be Mr. de la Renta without a number of showstoppers to close the show. This year: gorgeously beaded and embroidered gowns in succulent colors. Yes, fashion is often about theatrics, and that’s why we’re so lucky to have Oscar. He’s here to remind us that drama is best kept on the runway.