Original Chanel jacket from 1954 Haute Couture collection. Every meticulous stitch is still as it was the day Coco Chanel herself put the finishing touches on it.
Regardless of how one prefers to wear their CHANEL jacket, we all agree that there is no other piece of clothing that transcends time, style and age as gracefully. I wear mine with jeans for lunch and shopping dates, wide legged trousers for cocktails and a full length multi tiered silk chiffon Chanel skirt for black tie. My CHANEL jackets are my secret weapon, the pull it out and be fabulous no matter how much I weigh or feel at the moment kind. Nothing in my closet is as glamorous or versatile, I own dozens of CHANEL jackets and do not plan to part with any of them! Some I have had for 13 years, since I first started collecting in my 20′s, and some are new additions from this season. I keep each and every single one in a cedar lined closet in its original Chanel garment bag with a photo on the outside for ease of dressing. Call me obsessive but those of you who own these amazing creations know what I am talking about, the ones who don’t, you need to go and try one on. Just for the experience. And you’ll most likely leave with one.
I promised you a first hand peek at the very exclusive exhibit of CHANEL jackets from the Paris archives and you will not be disappointed. The exhibit was an amazing collection of the iconic CHANEL jacket, ranging from a suit reproduced from the first collection in 1916 to an original from 1954. There were also pieces from recent collections, one of which I have in my closet! So why the CHANEL jacket? Coco Chanel also created the first designer perfume, first shoulder bag (so her hands can be free) and was the first to design the LBD (little black dress, because she hated the confining clothes of the early 1900′s)
But it is the CHANEL jacket that is the most iconic and identifiable with the House of CHANEL for almost 100 years (some may argue it is the quilted bag but that did not come until 1955). Gabrielle Chanel used to say that elegance meant being equally beautiful on the inside and the outside. The same could be said of clothing. Some items possess sufficient magic to pass through time, while retaining an aura of desire, femininity, youthfulness and timelessness. Like the little black dress and the 2.55 quilted bag, the CHANEL jacket occupies a special position, that of an iconic luxury item – as beautiful on the inside as the outside.
Left: 1964 Haute Couture collection Right: 2006 Pret a porter
The first Chanel suit- 1916
The first CHANEL jackets were made in 1916, when Gabrielle Chanel made use of fluid, malleable wool jersey (which was only used as men’s underwear at the time and thus she caused a scandal when she made the first Chanel suit with it!) due to limited materials from the war, it was really all that was available. In an age when style often meant confinement in stiff materials and corsets, the CHANEL jacket left its mark by reflecting the needs of a society in which women were soon to play an active and major role.
In 1954 Mademoiselle Chanel returned to her truly unusual fashion policy and rendered the jacket in her favorite fabric- tweed. She returned to fashion after closing her atelier during WWII because she hated what she saw happening in the fashion industry after the war. Once again, women were tightened into tiny corsets and fitted dresses with poufy skirts, such was the style popularized by Dior but was a very uncomfortable not to mention unnatural look. The average woman did not have an 18 inch waist with 40 inch bust and hips! She wanted to give women clothes that fit with their active lifestyle; comfort and style were key and she made sure every detail in CHANEL jackets fit the demands of the modern women.
Sleeve lengths and pockets had to meet specific construction requirements and panels were created so the jacket could be fitted to each woman’s specific shape, she also preferred 3/4 length sleeves so she could show off her favorite bangles! One of the many secrets of the CHANEL jacket is in its silk lining; it conceals a fine chain that gives the jacket its impeccable silhouette. As Mme. Chanel once said, “a woman loves nothing more than to be wrapped in chains”. Who knew she was the precursor to Madonna?!?! Seriously though, the weighted chain allows the jacket to hang properly against a woman’s figure and not lose shape. CHANEL is the only couture house to ‘weight’ its jackets in this way.
Another important secret of the CHANEL jacket is in the paneling, there are multiple panels in each jacket created to fit a woman’s body perfectly not only to keep its shape but it allows for sizing up or down 2-3 sizes! I had to make use of this when I was pregnant, the lovely Alessandra at Chanel was able to size up my jackets during my pregnancy and size them back to my true size when I lost the baby weight. What other piece of clothing can allow you the same flexibility?
Mme Chanel loved ribbons, pearls and embroidery and trimmed them not only on her jackets but her jewels, bags and belts. As seen on this amazing white lambskin trimmed with black silk ribbons from the 1991 Ready to wear collection. Mme Chanel loved ribbons almost as much as she loved chains. It is one more element of femininity that she embraced and that Karl Lagerfeld continues today.
Every season since 1983 Karl Lagerfeld has reinvented and reinterpreted the cut of the CHANEL jacket- short or stretched, close-fitting or loose. He has turned the CHANEL jacket into a chameleon that always remains desirable, timeless and unique. He had been able to transcend the CHANEL heritage, enriching the jacket’s basic qualities while retaining its intrinsic features. He often quotes Goethe, who spoke of building a better future by expanding elements of the past.
It is an incredible design saga that explains how the CHANEL jacket has been able to stand up to the passage of time, defying changes in fashion and continuing to attract all the women who have succumbed to its inimitable sophistication and look. From Kate Moss to Vanessa Paradis, no one is able to resist the allure of the CHANEL jacket. Call Alexis to schedule a fitting of the latest from Fall and Resort Ready to Wear. 214-520-1055
CHANEL Jacket hand embroidered at the House of Lesage, France’s oldest embroiderer. This took 60 hours of handwork and only 10 were made.
Photos: Courtesy of CHANEL
The Chanel jacket I like best of the ones presented is the black one worn by the blonde with jeans. Sure everyone has heard about the Chanel jacket but maybe I´m too young or old to get really too excited.
gosh i want a chanel jacket! how much do they run?
I am now obsessed with buying my first too… I used to think I was too young but I guess it’s never to early to start collecting classic pieces! Love it, thank you for the introduction to Chanel jackets.
I have been waiting for your review since you first mentioned it! I am 27 and ready for my own collection instead of borrowing from my mother’s closet.
thankyou for this in depth look
J’adore Chanel. merci
I have half a dozen of these beautiful jackets in my closet. They are my ‘go-to’s’ when I am 1)unsure, 2)down-in-the-dumps, 3)feeling the need to look uber fabulous. Never out of style at any age.
I believe what is missing from my closet is a chanel jacket.
Nice article,
Tina,
Great article and lovely jackets!
I commented over at The Thoughtful Dresser that I’ve been wanting to invest in a Chanel jacket for a couple of years now, but every time I visit one of their boutiques, there’s not a jacket in sight. Do they keep them in the back like Birkins? Is there a secret handshake? Can you give me any tips to tracking one down?
Hi deja pseu- you have to ask them if they have any jackets in stock. No secret handshake but many times they keep them in the back. It is not hard to track down! My guy will even ship it to you if you’d like, 214-520-1055 chanel in Highland Park village. xo tina
Thank you so much, Tina! If I don’t have any luck at the So. Cal boutiques, I’ll definitely call your guy.
I’d love to see pics of some of your collection, if you ever decide to post them.
My husband and I attended the private event in Chicago last night. It was fabulous. My husband enjoyed learning about the history and construction of the clothing and jewelry. There was also a preview of next season’s fashions. We had a great time. If you have a chance to go, it is worth your time.
This is one of the best fashion blog entries I’ve ever read. Thankyou for being so entertaining and informative!
Tina, this is by far the most incredible entry you have ever done and one of the best I have read in any fashion website. Thank you for your insight, your humor and your fabulous introduction to Chanel jackets.
What a wonderful exhibit to attend. I hope they emphasized one the most fascinating construction details… the quilted lining. I am completely enamored with the original jackets, prior to Lagerfeld.
Re: the lining, there was a great article in Threads Magazine two years ago called “Inside a Chanel Jacket”. One of their couture writers broke down the basic elements – to her, the essentials were 1) jacket shape 2) tweed boucle 3) trim and 4) the *quilting*. In the article, which is not available online, she shows how you, or your dressmaker, can achieve this – with some practice of course! Obviously this would be good if you didn’t fit into Chanel’s sizes. They *do* have a nice online companion to the article, which is also a nice follow-up to your post here, I think:
Behind the Seams: Producing “Inside a Chanel Jacket”
How exciting for you that you got to go to this exhibit, Tina! Thanks for sharing with us.
im sorry i love chanel but this one is like my grandmothers, if i had wear it i would feel like a 60 years old
Can you suggest where might I purchase an authentic retro/vintage Chanel jacket?
I have to agree with Sutty k. I love Chanel but their jackets always make me feel frumpy! I treated myself to a couple of black ones when I got my first important work promotion but haven’t bought anymore since, every time I put them on I feel like I’ve aged 20 years. I don’t know – maybe it’s because I bought the wrong cut/style but mine definitely do not make me feel amazing or fabulous!
This article is outstanding.Thank you for writing it.I have been a Chanelophyle since decades.Chanel jackets are magical,the moment you put them on, you feel totally uplifted.
I own a consignment shop in Washington D.C.,and I am so pleased that I can supply these fabulous jackets to my customers at a fraction of the price.
So wherever you live ,go and visit a highend resale shop, and you will find the jacket of your dreams.
Hi, I noticed your reply in 2009 to an article re: Chanel Jackets on the bagsnob.com site. You’d mentioned that you owned a consignment shop in DC and that you carry Chanel jackets. Can you send me the name and location of the shop so I can check it out, and also whether you have any Chanel jackets in stock at the moment?
Thanks
Neelam
mybluering@gmail.com
Does anyone know what the black jacket being worn by the blonde carrying the pink logo handbag was called and which season it was from? I would love to try and find one.
Wow! This article is amazing! I’m doing some research on Chanel and this has helped me so much! Thank you!
hi. just wondering if you would happen to know the term for when 2 jacket panels are held closed with buttons and small chain…?
I LOVED this article-and have a small (but growing) collection of Chanel jackets. I’d be thrilled to see how Tina combines them with other pieces-I’m in my mid-60s but don’t want to look Mumsy–so now usually wear my jackets over jeans–but I’d love to learn some styling tiricks
Hi I’d like to knoe how many panels does a chanel jacket have? are the seams or darted seams
Hi Ahmed,
You should take a Friend and go into the Chanel Store and see for yourself.
The Staff are fine.
Just say you are looking for a gift and your budget is 8K.
They will show you everything.
Not sure of your Gender but you need to have a Female there to try the Clthes on.
Good Luck
Mary
I would like to know How can I update a chanel jacket, to give it a modern twist? I realize the chanel jacket is a timeless piece but ‘i want to make it look more on trend.
Hi Tina,
How lucky are you?? I just want one!
I will invest next Winter Season.
Too much on now.
It could be my early 50th Birthday present to myself!
I couldn’t think of anyone better to receive it from.
I am receiving it from someone who appreciates it as much as I do.
Me!
Best
Mary X
Was kostet eine Coco Chanel Jacke ?