A Book Review by Linda Grant:
As London eagerly awaits the opening, later this month, of the Victoria and Albert Museum’s landmark fashion exhibition, The Golden Age of Couture, a new book reveals exactly how far we have come from the days when a small elite of aristocratic women were the market for luxury goods.
Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster delves into the mainly European-led luxury market, the heirs to some of the world’s most famous houses: Hermes, Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Dana Thomas’ thesis, unsurprisingly, is that luxury goods have been democratised, that anyone prepared to max out their credit card can buy deluxe. The trend started in Japan in the 1980s, with disposable income looking for something to spend it on, and has now radiated out to the formerly Communist states - China and the Soviet Union – long starved of things to buy,. Under the direction of two or three companies controlling almost all world-wide luxury brands, once-distinguished houses have now become the window-dressing for the most ruthless forms of capitalism.
But more revealingly, Thomas shows that not only are more people buying luxury goods, but that the goods themselves are not what they once were. An overall decline in quality and the outsourcing of production (often concealed) to China means, for example, that a Prada dress purchased in 1992 is inferior to a Prada pair of pants purchased a decade later. The reason? Cheaper thread.
I have often wondered why a Hermes Birkin should cost so much, and whether the waiting list is merely part of the hype. Thomas shows that Hermes, along with Chanel, is one of the few companies left which retains its old standards of manufacture. A Hermes bag bought today is made in exactly the same way, taking the same time, as the first bag presented to Jane Birkin 40 years ago. If there is a waiting list, it only demonstrates that there are more people out there who want the few remaining real things.
The book leaves you to ponder an awkward question. When we buy luxury goods are we being ripped-off with items not much better in quality than we could buy for a fraction of the cost? I would argue, not really. A recently-purchased Armani Collezioni jacket is simply a vastly superior piece of clothing to its equivalent at Zara. It fits better, looks better and will last longer. Design is all. But if it’s design you’re looking for, why not just buy a fake, an exact copy?
Because the manufacturing, and by extension the purchasing of fakes, is a truly disgusting, immoral act. Not only is it intellectual property theft, but the conditions in which fake bags are made are terrifyingly evil – child slaves sewing until they are blinded by overwork, or in the case of a factory in Thailand, children whose legs were broken by their ‘owner’ when they begged to go out and play. And the profits from fakes are feeding back into the drugs trade, as well as financing terrorism. There seems to be links between the traffic in fakes and the 1993 attack on the World Trade Centre, as well as possible connections with Hizbollah, the Lebanese organisation which fought last summer’s war with Israel.
At then end of this book, Thomas argues that the desire for beautiful, well-made things, should not be an end in itself - the greed for more - but rather that one buys something because that thing is, in itself, simply right. To save up for the one or two truly beautiful things of quality, the very best you can afford, this is the true mark of style.
Thank you, Dear Linda for this review. You have been an amazing supporter of our site since we began! After reading your review I am even more obsessed with my beloved Hermes bags(as if that were possible!) and am glad I ordered the Graphite crocodile birkin! xo
Alot of bloggers have been raving about this book but I have to say this is one of the better reviews. I'm definitely going to check it out. Thanks for sharing.x
What a truly well written review, Linda. Your writing style is clear, concise, genuine and easy to read. Not a least bit condescending. I look forward to more contributions from you.
Tina, you couldn't have chosen a better reviewer.
Best.
Dear Bagsnobs,
Thank you for making us aware of this book. Now, I'm even more obsessed with buying Hermes and Chanel (don't worry, this is a good thing! ;)) It's terrifying that the stamp "MADE IN ITALY" doesn't necessarily hold true anymore...
Okay, seriously, I can't wait to have a copy in my hands! I have been reading reviews of the book and I can't help but feel angry!!! These people are actually having these bags made in China and they just do "final assembly" in Italy which enables them to put "MADE IN ITALY" on their products! This is just hitting me now, and hard! We bagsnobs have to read this and be educated about what indeed we are buying. I'll stop here, because I might just go on and on...
I enjoyed this review tremendously. I agree that the obsession with luxury labels has to do with both an increase in disposable income and a sharp decline in product quality. It's tricky establishing reasonable price ranges for quality goods as a consumer sometimes and I'm still working on it. I do not like to change my look dramatically from season to season, so I shop twice a year and want my purchases to last. I have learned the hard way that just because a label is "of the moment" and boasts a charismatic designer, doesn't mean the products will last. And just because a line of leather bags ups its price tags and gives free samples to celebrities, doesn't mean their products can withstand daily use either. However, one thing's for sure: A high price tag will not necessarily guarantee quality goods, but if you're looking to pay almost nothing, you're definitely NOT getting quality goods. So few things are bargains nowadays, especially for the female consumer!
My Aramani Suit looks as good as it did 20 years ago.
And it still has today's feel.
That is what you buy with money.
And yes, the suit was my only good business suit for ten years, and remains a mainstay even though I can afford more than one now.
Not sure I can buy the same quality as 20 years ago, per this book,but I plan to keep looking for it.
The book sounds like a winner for anyone.
Plan to buy it.
dear bagsnob, i have heard that while chanel's prices go up, their quality is going down. i believe you even made a reference to this in your entry on their latest alligator bag. would you say their quality is going down? it's hard to feel confident about spending $2-3000 on a bag that isn't as good as the previous year's $1500 version.
This review was wonderful. I was fortunate to hear Dana Thomas speak a few weeks back here in DC. I can't wait to read it.
Lulu is absolutely correct when she writes: 'A high price tag will not necessarily guarantee quality goods, but if you're looking to pay almost nothing, you're definitely NOT getting quality goods.'
Dana Thomas recommends that one seeks out niche brands, small companies without huge advertising budgets who have not over-expanded to seek out big markets, causing an overall decline in quality. She specifically mentions Christian Louboutin for shoes.
I would add in bags - Anya Hindmarch. She has kept her price points reasonable and having interviewed her for the Daily Telegraph in Britain, I know that she is committed to quality above super-profit.
At first I thought this book was basicallly for the snobs, but as I read through your wonderful review I can see that many things have gone under thanks to major consumerism. Nowadays, the average consumer wants something of low price no matter the quality (hence the sucess of Walmart) and I guess that is what some labels are starting. But I guess some don't understand the reason why High end is the way to go, because of the quality of the product being long lasting. If I spend thousands of dollars on a handbag (Chanel for example) I expect it to last me a good amount of years.
just goes to show that sometimes trends can sometimes overshadow the classic.
I am in the process of reading this book now and it has been very informative. From now on I will only buy from those privately owned companies Hermes and Versace, and any house owned by the Gucci Group. These are the only places with guaranteed quality. I have already raved about my Gianni Versace Couture man bag on here, and the quality is impeccable. Chanel is also privately owned but a man can't buy from there. Pick up this book, LVMH is pure evil. And Prada is also crap quality - read the book.
Again What makes Hermes so Dif from the fab new guys in the game?
Nothing! Nothing but hype and waiting .
Like I said before Hermes was the God of the best back in the day but the new comers can and are giving them a run for their money, And the wait list is hype .. Plain and simple. I love all of my hermes exotics but waiting 5 years is indeed silly.
Again I say hermes is the new louis vuitton, L vuitton the new coach and coach is the new who cares cause everyone has it!
Pick up this book, LVMH is pure evil. And Prada is also crap quality - read the book.
To go as far as to say LVMH is pure evil is a little much..LOLOL..
ALL of these brands are hype . Everylast one of them . HECK! FASHION in its self is HYPE. But I love it all the same.! Hermes is Great , My Prada CROC bag and roller suit case is wonderful. I have tons of bags from Thailand and I have visted the desingers and their work shops in Thailand . I think its a little bias to mention Thailand because bootlegging is done right here in the GOOD old USA as well. HELLO!
Good is Good , BAD is BAD . Period Point DOT!
One more thing . What is with all the Prada hate. Of all the brands to but on the cover. ! Hermes if anything has lost its luster. They are guilty of the same thing .. Producing the same bag in a bunch of colors. Whats the DIF?
Prada is a will always be a great brand. Some things I love from them some things I hate .! Just Like ANNNNNNY other brand !
Dang NAN, go off!!!!! =) I don't know, Heremes is pretty darn nice. I'm wearing their pants today, with a dark purple shirt and my Prunus (fancy word for dark purple) BV loafers - and I gotta say, these Hermes pants are darn nice and very well made. I should have qualified my statements - well, LVMH is still pure evil, but I will qualify my Prada statement and say Prada RTW is pure crap. The way the author Dana Thomas describes buying a recent pair of Prada pants and the first day she put them on, stuck her foot in, caught the hem, RIP, bent over to pick up her 2 year old, RIP up the behind. She talked to a former buyer of Prada and he said, they use the cheapest thread possible now, not top quality like they did before. The book is eye-opening, only privately owned and the Gucci Group for this guy.
@ManBag
I did go off didn't I ?LOLOL
And yes I must agree Hermes Clothing Top Notch ! Prada RTW not so top notch. I was speaking of Handbags . And LV I agree but half hearted because I also feel Gucci group is OK.. Not good not bad but just OOOK. I am not a gucci fan I hate the name . :)
@ Man BAG
I am a huge fan of Bespoke Denim ! Huge ! Love a great pair of jeans . But its hard to find a great Bespoke denim brand in the USA . I'll do some research on it i know there are a few . But I am saying this because I know what its like to get a bad fitting jean .. I am not a fan at all of the 7 jeans , and paige and all that .. just my Op
I agree with Nan! It's biased when you say that (as if) it is only Thailand that makes fakes! I'm sure in a lot of other countries makes fakes too. Saying such thing makes Thailand look like a savage, un-developed country although it's not. I have travelled to Thailand countless times and I can tell you that it is AMAZING.
I am in the process of reading through the book - currently in chapter 6, "It's In the Bag."
I had no idea this sort of thing was going on...for me, its niche brands from now on. (Which is one reason why bagsnobs.com is such a great resource. :)
Chapter 4 on celeb endorsements/stylists was enlightening ("Stars Get In Your Eyes"). And chapter 3, "Going Global," was...well...just read it...I could go on.
So glad I bought this book. Thank you Bagsnobs for publishing the review.
lulu you are right.
Just finished the chapter "It's in the Bag", I wonder which big names are guilty of "Made in China" yet still with "Made in Italy/France" labels. Author Dana Thomas can't reveal it, but we can all guess it here and have a discussion. I am guessing Prada and LV with the way they pump out those small flat pochette bags. Your take?
Currently reading it and completely disgusted with some of the remarks made by obviously ignorant designers such as McQueen and Prada in the book. Honestly, I don't trust any of these brand names and will resort to what I do best... shop vintage.
yeah, why can't we name and shame these companies?